2008-11-12

Gastronomy: Vienna and Prague

One of my favorite parts about visiting different countries is the chance to taste different cuisines. During our trip to Vienna and Prague we got a chance to taste authentic Austrian and Czech foods, visit a couple of markets, and drink lots of coffee, beer and wine.

What really stood out for me in Vienna were the coffeehouses. The relaxed atmosphere combined with the delicious desserts and coffee made them the perfect pit-stop for us during our long hours of walking around the city. During our 2 days in Vienna, we visited 3 coffeehouses and one of them was the famous Sacher Hotel coffeehouse - home of the original sachertorte. The famous sachertorte was created back in 1832 by Franz Sacher. It consists of a chocolate sponge cake cut into three layers, between which apricot jam is spread on all sides of the cake. The whole cake is then iced with a velvet-like chocolate and served with a side of whipped cream. The place was packed with a line out the door. We waited patiently for our table and the cake was as delicious (and beautiful) as described by others. It was a pricey piece of cake though, but really worth the money!





The food in Vienna was nothing spectacular (typical sausage & goulash) and Jeremy didn’t think the beer was that great either. However, during our 2 days there, we got the chance to visit 3 Viennese markets. We visited Naschmarkt - Vienna’s largest and best known market. Naschmarkt is huge (it stretches out for almost a mile in length!) and filled with stands selling a huge variety of fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, spices, breads and cheeses. There are also stands selling clothes and accessories; and a variety of eateries ranging from high end seafood restaurants to hot-dog stands.




This is one of my favorite photos! Typical European market, specially with that guy!

In Prague, unlike Vienna, we did not see any open markets or many coffeehouses. However, we did find many pubs serving good Bohemian food and good cheap beer. Those of you who like beer (Kurt) should come to Prague. Beer is pretty much the cheapest drink on the menu. You can get a pint of beer for less than $2 but you’ll have to pay almost $3 for a bottle of water or soda.

On our first night in Prague we ate at a restaurant near our apartment. We both ordered the traditional dish - Cmunda po kaplicku. It is basically ham and cabbage (could be Bohemian (sour) or Moravian (sweet)) wrapped inside a potato pancake. Although I was a bit skeptical at first, I was amazed at how well the flavors complemented each other. It was at this restaurant that we also had our first taste of Czech garlic soup. I’ve never heard of garlic soup before, but it was very tasty so the both of us ended up ordering it again in our second night in Prague.



On our second night, Jeremy decided to splurge and order the Bohemian meat platter - duck, turkey, pork, sausage, both sweet and sour cabbage and a variety of dumplings (for less than $10!) The Bohemian meat platter, the garlic soup, and 2 pints of dark beer made that meal Jeremy’s favorite one of our whole trip!



2008-11-07

Fall Break Trip to Vienna & Prague

We took advantage of a five day weekend for Fall Break by traveling to Vienna for two days and Prague for another two. In our short visit to each city, we saw a lot of amazing buildings and landscapes by walking a lot: we were on our feet and moving maybe 7 or 8 hours everyday. Vienna awed us with its amazing architecture from the medieval church of St. Stephan's to the many Hapsburg buildings constructed along the "Ring" under the direction of Emperor Franz Joseph I in the mid-late nineteenth century. While its architecture awed us, we were also struck by the modernity of the city. We could not recall an American city that had such modern infrastructure.

Prague, however, made no pretense at modernity. What defined Prague was its history as seen in its medieval and early modern buildings, its narrow, crooked, and cobble-stone roads, and its old bridges. Unlike many other historic European cities, Prague emerged from World War II unscathed (the buildings not the people), therefore more of its historic architecture has survived. At times walking through Prague made us feel like we were traveling through a medieval city. Conversely, at other times we felt like we were in Disneyland. Prague may be a treasure but it is certainly not an undiscovered one.

Vienna - 10/23-10/24

On the first day we traveled from the modest apartment we rented to the center of the city and its biggest tourist attraction, St. Stephan's Cathedral. We then headed out from the city center to the "Ringstrasse" which is a famous boulevard - full of parks, monuments, and beautiful buildings created under Franz Joseph I in the 1800's - which forms a ring around the historic part of Vienna.

If you want to see all of our pictures see: http://picasaweb.google.com/runningmonkey01/ViennaPrague02?authkey=apJqZGSRI1o#slideshow


Susan as we begin our exploration of Vienna by crossing the Danube Channel

St. Rupert's

St. Stephan's - View from outside



Inside St Stephan's

Climbing up the South Tower. They allowed us to climb up the tower about 230' on a narrow spiral staircase (which is only half way up).

Mixture of Old & New: Reflection of the Medieval Cathedral of St. Stephan's on a Modern Building

City Streets

The Ring:
We began our tour of the famous Ringstrasse (the "Ring") from the north and headed counter-clockwise.

Votive Church

Interesting stained glass depiction of a dragon slaying in the Votive Church

Hofburg Theater

Rathaus

Susan at the Parlament Building (she is used here for perspective)

Museums

Susan & the Elephant (Naturhistor Museum)

I call this one "Crazy Horse"

Opera

Butterfly House

Palace

Reflecting Pool

Rathaus at Night



Palace Grounds

Day 2:
On the second day we completed our tour of the ring in the evening, but only after taking a day trip to Klosterneuburg. This town located near the Danube is about a 30 minute bus ride north of Vienna. We visited a hilltop monastery there on top of a hill overlooking the Danube valley. The monastery was quiet and peaceful, out of the reach of the tourist crowds, and included a church that dates to the 12th century.



Klosterneuburg Priory Church


Klosterneuburg Town

After finishing our walk around the Klosterneuburg Monastery and town, we took the bus back to Vienna and continued our tour of the "Ring," this time starting in the south and heading clockwise.


Danube Channel


Hundertwasser

View of Karlskirche from a reflecting pool in Karlsplatz

Top of Karlskirche

Our Last Night in Vienna

Prague

The next two days of our trip we spent in Prague, Czech Republic. After arriving by train, checking in our hotel, and getting lunch we immediately set out on foot to explore the city.

Vtlava River

Dancing House






Church of St. Cyril & St. Methodius - During World War II Nazi Germany occupied and controlled Prague. Like all Nazi occupied areas, most notably France, an underground resistance movement emerged. The Czech resistance was remarkable in that it succeeded in assassinating one of the key Nazi leaders of the region. The assassins/resistors/patriots hid out in the crypt of this church while the Nazis hunted them. A member of their group betrayed them and the Nazi surrounded the church. The resistors held out as long as they could but eventually committed suicide to avoid capture. Not yet satisfied, the Nazis hell-bent on revenge - under Hitler's order - continued their recriminations by completely wiping out the hometown of these resistors. Out of several hundred inhabitants, not a one was spared. What was Prague's (and Budapest's) reward for surviving the horrors of the Nazis? Half a century of communism.


Susan with the Legii Bridge in the background



Charles Bridge



Roads of Old Town

Astronomical Clock

Tyn Church

Susan & the Big Chair

Susan

Powder Tower

Henry's Bell Tower


For the graphic artists out there, here are some interesting posters for the Museum of Communism

Praha nadrazi

Vaclavske nam & St. Wenceslaus Statue



National Museum

Sv. Antonin

Letenske Sady (this is a park on a hill overlooking the Vltava River and the entire city from the northbank of the river) - the views from here were amazing (see below)

View of Tyn Church from Letenske Sady

View of River

View of City

View of Prague Castle

Sun setting over castle

Castle

Susan over tunnel

River Bridges

Day 2:
We visited famous Prague Castle. Every part of it included beautiful views and amazing architecture, but as a result, the common sight-seeing spots were overrun with tourists. Fortunately after seeing these sights, when we took a walk around the back side of the castle, we were almost entirely alone.

Golden Lane

St. Vitus

St. George's Basilica

Dome/Skyline

Loreta Church - now we began our walk around the backside of the castle

Crazy Susan



Novy Svet - it means New World, but I can't remember why

Deer Ditch

Royal Garden



St. Vitus at Sunset





Charles Bridge at Night

Darth Vader guards the historic Charles Bridge. Actually it's a statue of a medieval warrior-king, but it sure looks the dark-helmeted one.